Overwintering Amaryllis

Overwintering Amaryllis: How to Re-Bloom These Holiday Showstoppers Year After Year

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum hybrids) are beloved for their bold, trumpet-shaped blooms and seasonal flair—but contrary to popular belief, they're not just one-hit wonders. With a few easy steps, you can enjoy the same bulbs for many winters to come.

Step 1: Post-Bloom Care (Late Winter to Spring)

After flowers fade:

• Cut flower stalks to the base once blooms are spent.
• Leave the foliage intact—it continues photosynthesis and recharges the bulb.
• Move the pot to a bright window or outdoor spot (after frost) and water regularly.
• Feed every 2–4 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar).

This phase lasts through spring and summer and is essential for reblooming.

Step 2: Inducing Dormancy (Late Summer to Early Fall)

In late August or September:

• Stop watering and feeding.
• Move the plant to a cool, dark location (50–55°F / 10–13°C).
• Allow leaves to yellow and wither naturally, then trim them off.

Let the bulb rest for 8–12 weeks—this dormant period resets the flowering cycle.

Step 3: Reawakening the Bulb (8–12 Weeks Before Desired Bloom)

To time amaryllis for holidays like Thanksgiving, Christmas, or Valentine’s Day:

• Move the dormant bulb to a warm, bright location (65–75°F).
• Water sparingly at first; begin regular watering once green growth appears.
• Blooms emerge in 4–8 weeks depending on variety, bulb size, and temperature.

Tip: Re-pot only every 2–3 years, and always leave the top third of the bulb above the soil line.

Storage Notes for Unplanted Bulbs

If you're storing dormant amaryllis bulbs out of soil:

• Wrap in dry peat or paper in a ventilated bag or box.
• Store in a dark, cool place (50–55°F)—a dry basement or refrigerator drawer works well.
• Avoid storing near ripening fruit to prevent ethylene exposure, which can harm buds.